Finance

Mortgage Calculator

Calculate your monthly payment with PMI, taxes, insurance, and HOA. Compare Conventional, FHA, and VA loans.

Standard loan; PMI if DP < 20%, drops at 78% LTV.
Annual costs

Monthly payment

$3,438.23
PITI + PMI/MIP

Payment breakdown

Principal & interest
$2,694.48
Property tax
$450.00
Insurance
$125.00
PMI
Drops month 115
$168.75
Total monthly
$3,438.23

Loan summary

Loan amount
90.0% LTV
$405,000
Total interest paid
$565,011

Amortization schedule (first 12 + every 12 months)

MonthPrincipalInterestPMI/MIPBalance
1$331.98$2,362.50$168.75$404,668
2$333.91$2,360.56$168.75$404,334
3$335.86$2,358.62$168.75$403,998
4$337.82$2,356.66$168.75$403,660
5$339.79$2,354.69$168.75$403,321
6$341.77$2,352.70$168.75$402,979
7$343.77$2,350.71$168.75$402,635
8$345.77$2,348.70$168.75$402,289
9$347.79$2,346.69$168.75$401,942
10$349.82$2,344.66$168.75$401,592
11$351.86$2,342.62$168.75$401,240
12$353.91$2,340.57$168.75$400,886
24$379.49$2,314.98$168.75$396,475
36$406.93$2,287.55$168.75$391,744
48$436.34$2,258.13$168.75$386,672
60$467.89$2,226.59$168.75$381,233
72$501.71$2,192.76$168.75$375,401
84$537.98$2,156.50$168.75$369,147
96$576.87$2,117.61$168.75$362,441
108$618.57$2,075.90$168.75$355,251
120$663.29$2,031.19$347,540
132$711.24$1,983.24$339,272
144$762.65$1,931.82$330,407
156$817.79$1,876.69$320,900
168$876.90$1,817.57$310,707
180$940.29$1,754.18$299,776
192$1,008.27$1,686.21$288,056
204$1,081.16$1,613.32$275,488
216$1,159.31$1,535.16$262,011
228$1,243.12$1,451.36$247,561
240$1,332.99$1,361.49$232,065
252$1,429.35$1,265.13$215,450
264$1,532.67$1,161.80$197,633
276$1,643.47$1,051.00$178,529
288$1,762.28$932.20$158,043
300$1,889.67$804.80$136,076
312$2,026.28$668.20$112,522
324$2,172.76$521.72$87,265
336$2,329.83$364.65$60,181
348$2,498.25$196.23$31,140
360$2,678.85$15.63$0

PITI — what your monthly payment really includes

When lenders quote a mortgage payment, they usually mean PITI — Principal, Interest, Taxes, and Insurance. Add PMI if your down payment is under 20% (Conventional) or any FHA loan, and HOA dues if you're buying in a community with an association. Here's what each piece is and where the money goes:

  • Principal — paying down what you borrowed. Builds your equity.
  • Interest — the cost of borrowing, paid to the lender. Front-loaded in amortization.
  • Property tax — paid to your county/city, not the lender. The lender escrows it: you pay 1/12 each month, they pay the county once or twice a year.
  • Homeowners insurance — covers fire, theft, liability, etc. Required by lenders. Also escrowed.
  • PMI (Private Mortgage Insurance) — protects the lender if you default. You pay it, they benefit. Drops automatically when you reach 22% equity (78% LTV) on Conventional loans; FHA MIP often stays for the life of the loan.
  • HOA dues — if your community has one, dues fund shared amenities and maintenance. Not escrowed by the lender; you pay separately.

The amortization formula and why early payments are mostly interest

The standard amortization formula calculates a fixed monthly payment that pays off the loan in equal installments over the term. Each payment splits between interest (calculated on the remaining balance) and principal (the rest). Because the balance is highest at the start, early payments are nearly all interest.

Concrete example: a $400,000 loan at 7% for 30 years has a payment of $2,661/month (P&I only). In month 1, $2,333 is interest and only $328 is principal. By year 15, the split is roughly 50/50. Only in the final years does principal dominate.

This is why extra principal payments early have outsized impact. One extra $1,000 payment in year 1 of that 7% loan saves you ~$3,800 in future interest and shaves ~3 months off the term. The same $1,000 in year 25 saves almost nothing.

Conventional vs FHA vs VA loans

Conventional

Not government-backed. Down payment as low as 3% (5% more typical), credit score requirements ~620+. Best when you have strong credit and at least 5–10% down. PMI required below 20% down, but it drops off automatically.

FHA (Federal Housing Administration)

Government-backed. Down payment as low as 3.5% with credit score 580+, or 10% with scores 500–579. Designed for first-time buyers and those with limited savings or shorter credit history. Catch: MIP (mortgage insurance premium) typically stays for the life of the loan unless you put 10%+ down. Higher long-term cost vs. Conventional for borrowers who could qualify either way.

VA (Veterans Affairs)

Available to eligible service members, veterans, and surviving spouses. 0% down possible, no PMI ever, competitive rates. One-time funding fee (1.25–3.3% of loan, financed into the loan). Generally the best deal if you qualify.

15-year vs 30-year — the real tradeoff

On the same $400,000 at 7%:

  • 30-year: $2,661/month, $558,000 in total interest over the life of the loan.
  • 15-year: $3,595/month (often at a slightly lower rate, say 6.5%, making it ~$3,485/month), $228,000 in total interest. Roughly $300,000+ less interest paid.

The 15-year has higher monthly cash-flow demand, but pays off the home in half the time and saves a fortune in interest. The honest tradeoff: a 30-year payment leaves more room each month for retirement contributions, emergency funds, and life flexibility. Many financial advisors recommend a 30-year with optional extra principal payments when affordable — best of both worlds.

How much house can you afford?

Lenders use two main ratios:

  • Front-end ratio (housing costs) — PITI ÷ gross monthly income. Lenders prefer ≤28% (some flex up to 31%). On a $100,000 income, that's a $2,333–$2,583/month max housing payment.
  • Back-end ratio (total debt) — all monthly debt payments ÷ gross monthly income. Most lenders cap at 36–43%, sometimes 50% on government-backed loans.

These are maximums, not targets. A common smart rule: keep total housing costs (PITI) below 25% of net take-home pay — much more conservative than what banks will approve, but it leaves real margin for retirement, emergencies, and unplanned home expenses (which always come).

When refinancing makes sense

Old rule of thumb: refinance if the new rate is at least 1% lower than your current rate. Modern rule: calculate the break-even point. Closing costs of $5,000 and a $200/month savings = 25 months break-even. If you plan to stay in the home longer than that, refinancing is worth it.

Cash-out refinancing (taking equity as cash) can make sense for high-interest debt consolidation, but converts unsecured debt into mortgage-secured debt — losing your home becomes the consequence of default. Use carefully.

State-specific calculators

Property taxes vary enormously by state — from 0.3% in Hawaii to 2.2% in New Jersey. We have state-specific mortgage calculators with realistic property tax and insurance defaults pre-filled — see the Texas, Florida, New York, or Californiaversions, or browse from the main calculator's state dropdown. Pair with the Paycheck Calculator to see how state taxes affect your home-buying budget after taxes.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's included in a mortgage payment?
PITI: Principal, Interest, Taxes, Insurance. Plus PMI/MIP if your down payment is under 20%, and HOA fees if applicable. Our calculator breaks every line out so you see exactly what you're paying for.
When does PMI go away?
On conventional loans: automatically when your loan balance reaches 78% of the original home value (Homeowners Protection Act). You can request removal at 80% LTV. On FHA loans, MIP drops at 11 years if your down payment was 10%+; otherwise it lasts the life of the loan. VA loans have no PMI ever.
Conventional vs FHA vs VA — which is best?
VA is best if you're eligible (military service): zero down, no PMI, low rates. FHA is best for buyers with 3.5%+ down and lower credit scores (580+). Conventional is best for buyers with 5-20% down and 680+ credit — lowest long-term cost once you hit 20% equity.
How much house can I afford?
A common rule: monthly housing costs (PITI + HOA) should be ≤ 28% of your gross monthly income, and total debt ≤ 36%. Use our paycheck calculator to estimate take-home, then work backwards from that 28% guideline.
Should I make extra principal payments?
Often yes — every extra dollar early shaves off compounding interest. On a $400K loan at 7%, an extra $200/month saves ~$140K in interest and pays off ~9 years early. But always weigh against higher-yield alternatives (employer 401k match, high-interest debt).

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